Monday, May 7, 2007





Montpellier. After our last night in Paris we did not need to rush but we took a taxi to Gare de Lyon because of the luggage. The TGV left on time at 11:24am and we were able to get a snack on board as the familiar French countryside swept past. We arrived in Montpellier three and a half hours later and although the Citadines hotel was said to be quite close we took a taxi as it was very hot and we did not fancy getting lost with the luggage. We found that a modern tram runs right past the hotel with service every 5 minutes during week days with 3 stops to the railway station and 4 to the town square at La Comedie, 10 Euros for a 10 trip ticket. The hotel was clean and modern with unlimited free Internet access. There was a good market just across the street and a variety of cafes nearby. Antigone and Polygon complex is new enough that it feels a little “unlived in” compared to most French towns, but given time it may blend into the older part of Montpellier although it probably will not last as long. After a short walk around town we settled for a meal at a café near the hotel, which was rather disappointing. On Tuesday 24 April we caught the TGV to Marseille for the day. The weather was fine and sunny and the trip across to the Rhone and through Provence was very interesting. From the station we descended the grand steps and followed the road to the centre of town and down to the waterfront where the fish market was still in full swing. We then signed up for a bus tour which would allow us to get on and off during the day. The first stop was at Anse des Auffes where we had lunch at a recommended restaurant, Fon Fon, famous for its Bouillabaisse, 45 Euros. We settled for the fish soup, including 2 servings, and a nice wine which was very enjoyable. The service was excellent from a team of uniformed staff, obviously a high class establishment. We walked to the next bus stop around the Corniche road with fine views of the Isles des Frioul and Chateau d’If, the setting for The Count of Monte Christo. The bus then took us to the Notre Dame de la Garde, the church which dominates Marseille from the highest peak and which is surmounted by a huge gold statute of Christ. We made it back to the station in good time for the return train, only to find it was “supprimé” which Judy’s dictionary told us meant cancelled. We rebooked on the next train and had a picnic supper on the steps outside the station while we waited. We eventually arrived back in Montpellier, caught the tram back to the hotel and so to bed. On Wednesday 25 April we planned to visit the famous Pont du Gard and Nimes. We took the local train to Avignon and booked onto a local bus. While waiting we went for a walk around the town, starting with coffee in the square, to the Rhone at the old bridge and back via an exhausting set of 170 steps and the Palais des Papes. The bus terminal was extremely grotty and the bus gave no indication of passing the Pont du Gard. We were dropped off in the middle of nowhere and had to ask the way. Obviously the tourist industry is geared to tour buses and private cars and they do not expect or want visitors who use public transport. The new visitor centre however was tasteful and the aqueduct itself was awesome. While you can no longer access the highest two levels you can cross the lowest level and steps and paths provide great views from either side. It was a hot day and a few lads were swimming and jumping off the cliffs, which was supposed to be forbidden. Eventually, back in the bus to Nimes, we found that we went to Uzes then back to Pont du Gard, so we could have had an extra hour there, but we had an interesting view of the countryside so we did not fret too much. In Nimes we purchased out train tickets back to Montpellier and went to explore the town, the Roman Arena, a mini version of the Coliseum in Rome, and La Maison Carree, an impressive Roman temple, now a museum, which was closed. After a drink at a café near the station we arrived to find that once again our train had been “supprimé”, but a helpful official said we could board another train leaving immediately, and so we arrived safely back in our hotel. Thursday 26 April we explored old Montpellier and located a recommended restaurant near the forbidding church of St Pierre with the strange rocket shaped towers supporting a high stone canopy over the door. We had a very nice lunch at a café near by then walked on as far as the “Chateau d’ Eau” and the aqueduct that used to supply water to the town, then back via various back alleys to the hotel where we found Ann and Terry had arrived. For dinner we all went to the restaurant near St Pierre, and although the ambiance was charming the food was somewhat disappointing.