Decize and the Canal Lateral de Loire to Nevers.
The afternoon of our arrival in Decize, Judy and Ann took a taxi to the laundry which was on the other side of the Loire. Denis prepared the blog update ready for posting and sorted a lot of photo files. We had a BBQ dinner then Judy and Denis had a walk around town. (Since this is almost the longest day it is light till late.) As we returned to the boat a large cumulus cloud which had been developing started to turn on an amazing lightning display which kept us entertained for an hour or so. The interesting thing was that there was no rain or sound of thunder at all! (We read the next day that a violent storm had struck the town of Nevers destroying a house.)
Tuesday morning was market day in Decize and the market was right next to the boat mooring. Under the avenue of old (1770s) plane trees there were perhaps 100 stalls selling clothing, household goods and food. We did not think the quality and prices of the goods were all that great, although Terry brought a Panama hat for the sunny days ahead (we hope). Judy and Denis walked around town and crossed the Loire Bridge to see the locks which we would take to enter the Canal Lateral la Loire. The Loire was flowing strongly and there was an eddy at the entrance to the lock which was causing problems for the boats entering. We hoped that conditions would be better for our passage the next day. We then found the only public Internet facility in Decize, which turned out to be part of a school, and checked our email and updated the blog. The weather was fine and rather hot for walking about and we had to stop for a refreshing drink or two. We then met Ann and Terry at the supermarket for shopping and carried the supplies back to the boat. We ate out at a Vietnamese restaurant near the moorings in the evening. Another thunder storm was threatening, lots of thunder but little lightning visible and virtually no rain. We sat on the veranda and enjoyed an excellent selection of delicacies, however what was ordered as chicken and cashew nuts was delivered as curried frog’s legs, and when we declined to pay for them Judy had to exercise her strongest French to resolve the problem.
Wednesday 20 June. We watered up and got under way at 9:00. Motored slowly down the Vieille Loire wondering what the river had in store for us. As we turned to port into the river a number of fisherman had to quickly pull their lines in as we had to keep close to the bank out of the current. As it turned out, the conditions seemed somewhat less turbulent than the previous day. We had to hover in the current while another boat came out of the lock, then pulled the rope hanging from an arm over the river before entering the lock without any drama. We emerged into the large basin which is used by Crown Blue Line for its base, then out through the next lock and into the Canal Lateral de la Loire at 10:15. This canal proved to be deeper and wider than the Nivernais so Madame Ashley was somewhat less temperamental and we cruised comfortably under cloudy skies with a light westerly wind and moderate temperatures. The countryside was gently rolling farm land with herds of white Charolais beef cattle and the odd milking herd. We stopped at Fleury-sur-Loire for lunch at 12:30. Took a walk into the village to see the 12th century church (closed for visitors) and the Cyber-Bar-Brasserie.
Under way again at 14:00 and moored for the night at Chevenon, just down stream of the bridge. There is a small village here with a notable Chateau nearby, but in spite of the prominent signs, it remained invisible behind a thick screen of trees and “No Entry” signs; so much for tourism. Excellent BBQ pork chops with all the trimmings for dinner on the after deck. Several other boats moored nearby for the night.
Location for Chevenon. N46º55.553’ E003º14.060’ Altitude 182 metres.
Thursday 21 June. Heavy rain showers in the morning, clearing during breakfast. Under way at 9:00, wind light westerly and cool. Reached branch canal to Nevers at 10:00 but had to wait till 10:30 for lock (Number 20, Verville) to clear. After one more lock, entered 2km canal to the basin at Nevers where we had our pick of berths at the excellently set up new marina. We walked into town, finding our way past the new swimming pool complex which has been built on the site of the lock which used to connect the canal basin to the Loire, then over the bridge with the river flowing swiftly underneath. We lunched at a good café on the town side of the bridge and set out to explore. As usual, the town was dominated by its cathedral, in this case St Cyr. This had passed through many reconstructions since its foundations in medieval times, the most recent after it was accidentally bombed by the RAF in 1944. This destroyed the roof and the windows and uncovered the remains of a font from a very early church. The restoration work is still going on, but the most striking aspect was that the new stained glass windows are the work of a number of modern artists and the place was suffused with richly colored light which gave it a warmth in contrast to the dark and cold interiors of most medieval churches.
Back at the boat we had dinner on board and were able to hear the music from a nearby café as it was “Fete de la Musique” day in France when there is live action at many of the town’s venues.
Location for Nevers. N46º58.733’ E003º10.037’ Altitude 177 metres.
The afternoon of our arrival in Decize, Judy and Ann took a taxi to the laundry which was on the other side of the Loire. Denis prepared the blog update ready for posting and sorted a lot of photo files. We had a BBQ dinner then Judy and Denis had a walk around town. (Since this is almost the longest day it is light till late.) As we returned to the boat a large cumulus cloud which had been developing started to turn on an amazing lightning display which kept us entertained for an hour or so. The interesting thing was that there was no rain or sound of thunder at all! (We read the next day that a violent storm had struck the town of Nevers destroying a house.)
Tuesday morning was market day in Decize and the market was right next to the boat mooring. Under the avenue of old (1770s) plane trees there were perhaps 100 stalls selling clothing, household goods and food. We did not think the quality and prices of the goods were all that great, although Terry brought a Panama hat for the sunny days ahead (we hope). Judy and Denis walked around town and crossed the Loire Bridge to see the locks which we would take to enter the Canal Lateral la Loire. The Loire was flowing strongly and there was an eddy at the entrance to the lock which was causing problems for the boats entering. We hoped that conditions would be better for our passage the next day. We then found the only public Internet facility in Decize, which turned out to be part of a school, and checked our email and updated the blog. The weather was fine and rather hot for walking about and we had to stop for a refreshing drink or two. We then met Ann and Terry at the supermarket for shopping and carried the supplies back to the boat. We ate out at a Vietnamese restaurant near the moorings in the evening. Another thunder storm was threatening, lots of thunder but little lightning visible and virtually no rain. We sat on the veranda and enjoyed an excellent selection of delicacies, however what was ordered as chicken and cashew nuts was delivered as curried frog’s legs, and when we declined to pay for them Judy had to exercise her strongest French to resolve the problem.
Wednesday 20 June. We watered up and got under way at 9:00. Motored slowly down the Vieille Loire wondering what the river had in store for us. As we turned to port into the river a number of fisherman had to quickly pull their lines in as we had to keep close to the bank out of the current. As it turned out, the conditions seemed somewhat less turbulent than the previous day. We had to hover in the current while another boat came out of the lock, then pulled the rope hanging from an arm over the river before entering the lock without any drama. We emerged into the large basin which is used by Crown Blue Line for its base, then out through the next lock and into the Canal Lateral de la Loire at 10:15. This canal proved to be deeper and wider than the Nivernais so Madame Ashley was somewhat less temperamental and we cruised comfortably under cloudy skies with a light westerly wind and moderate temperatures. The countryside was gently rolling farm land with herds of white Charolais beef cattle and the odd milking herd. We stopped at Fleury-sur-Loire for lunch at 12:30. Took a walk into the village to see the 12th century church (closed for visitors) and the Cyber-Bar-Brasserie.
Under way again at 14:00 and moored for the night at Chevenon, just down stream of the bridge. There is a small village here with a notable Chateau nearby, but in spite of the prominent signs, it remained invisible behind a thick screen of trees and “No Entry” signs; so much for tourism. Excellent BBQ pork chops with all the trimmings for dinner on the after deck. Several other boats moored nearby for the night.
Location for Chevenon. N46º55.553’ E003º14.060’ Altitude 182 metres.
Thursday 21 June. Heavy rain showers in the morning, clearing during breakfast. Under way at 9:00, wind light westerly and cool. Reached branch canal to Nevers at 10:00 but had to wait till 10:30 for lock (Number 20, Verville) to clear. After one more lock, entered 2km canal to the basin at Nevers where we had our pick of berths at the excellently set up new marina. We walked into town, finding our way past the new swimming pool complex which has been built on the site of the lock which used to connect the canal basin to the Loire, then over the bridge with the river flowing swiftly underneath. We lunched at a good café on the town side of the bridge and set out to explore. As usual, the town was dominated by its cathedral, in this case St Cyr. This had passed through many reconstructions since its foundations in medieval times, the most recent after it was accidentally bombed by the RAF in 1944. This destroyed the roof and the windows and uncovered the remains of a font from a very early church. The restoration work is still going on, but the most striking aspect was that the new stained glass windows are the work of a number of modern artists and the place was suffused with richly colored light which gave it a warmth in contrast to the dark and cold interiors of most medieval churches.
Back at the boat we had dinner on board and were able to hear the music from a nearby café as it was “Fete de la Musique” day in France when there is live action at many of the town’s venues.
Location for Nevers. N46º58.733’ E003º10.037’ Altitude 177 metres.
